July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1

So, the next stage of my summer camp was a significant trip around Karelia and the Arkhangelsk region, actually a month long, in which I would like to share some parts. I am still convinced that you need to walk along the North, with a backpack, drop sweat on the ground, stop and live in some places, communicate with the local population, and only then there is a chance to really learn, understand and feel something. Press the gas pedal in the car, and then making a selfie against the background of the village, it is certainly more convenient to leave after the first pit on the primer, but you should not be surprised if there is nothing left except a beautiful picture in the instagram. Another detail that I vividly felt on this journey was that they treat a wanderer with a backpack in a completely different way: they will give a free ride, they will invite you to tea, they will tell interesting stories about life.Whereas typical tourists will only try to sell souvenirs more expensive, but to entertain or scare with fairy tales.
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

And this wonderful and harmonious journey began, oddly enough, with the rays of hatred. They are directed towards the water station of the city of Petrozavodsk. Firstly, in 2018 they canceled the ferry to Shalu, which I planned after to get to Besov Nos and petroglyphs (it’s difficult to get from Onega for traveling there and it’s expensive to rent a car). Secondly, it is impossible to book in advance a ticket for a meteor to the Great Lip. Arriving in Petrozavodsk by speed Swallow, I immediately went to Onego, where the girl at the box office, smiling sweetly, said that there were no tickets for today, and the nearest one next Friday. Ie, in order to use high-speed water transport to V. Guba, you need to come to PTZ in a week. Cool system!
After talking with other carriers, I find out that all private boats have already left today, and private transportation will cost much more, about 3,000. Mentally I say goodbye to a pleasant two-hour boat trip on the lake, and I call to order a ticket for a bus that goes 6 hours later Medvezhegorsk. Reservations must be redeemed 2 hours before departure.I go to the bus station, which is located at the other end of the city, taking a backpack from the luggage room on the way. Heat 30 degrees in the shade. As a result, with running around for the tickets, I missed the Museum of Local Lore and the Museum of Shipbuilding Polar Odyssey, where I was going to get there. Yes, and also to buy a ticket in the Velikaya Guba is also very unlikely, and since I didn’t know how many days my trip would last, it was my plan to go back through the Hay Lip and visit the iconic Radkolie Island.
Last time I arrived, Petrozavodsk seemed gray and Soviet, but now it’s quite a pleasant, green and people-filled city. There is a wooden building.
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

I managed only a little run through my favorite promenade.
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

I prefer the far end of the embankment, the second stage, wooden sculptures depicting the heroes of Kalevala and other ethnics. Sculptures from left to right: Liberation of the Sun (by Grigor Grigoryan, Armenia), Fight of good against evil (Alexander Kim), Pevun (Andrey Petrov)
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

After 6 hours in a hot bus, already late in the evening I get to Velikaya Guba and spend the night in Margarita’s guest house, in order to wander around the village the next morning without a backpack, without setting up a tent.
Velikaya Guba is the largest village in the south of the Zaonezhsky peninsula. Consists of 5 bushes villages, the most interesting of which - Verkhovye. Here, at the turn-off at Bolnichny and Vegoruksy, there is a monument of architecture - Kostin’s House built in 1871 (62.25732, 35.08867). However, now it is only a small part of the former home. Though the house and residential, but his condition leaves much to be desired. It seems that there was enough money only for a tin sign "Monument of architecture. It is protected by the state"
July 2018. Month in the North.Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

But his remark, created by measurements and photographs, in the Theological Park of Theology near St. Petersburg
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

Nearby are several old buildings. Across the road from the fork you can find the not yet completely destroyed ruins of the house of the Gornykhs (62.25776, 35.05994)
But the house-krestovik. Krestovik called chetyrehstenny log house, inside of which are the fifth transverse and sixth longitudinal walls. Two internal capital walls are called cuts and divide the house into four equal parts.
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

There are houses with carved skates and platbands.
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

The village is really big: about 7 shops, a school, a kindergarten, a post office. Life is in full swing around: there are a lot of cars, agricultural equipment, boats, people, children on bicycles around.On the hot streets, cows walk slowly.
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

I tried to reach the spring Salt Pit, but ran into some wild swamp. No trace of the ecotrail was left, nothing was done there without boots, I didn’t go.
The white-stone church of Alexis, the man of God (1866) in the village of Pohost. Built on the site of the wooden church of the Prophet Elijah. In the Soviet years, has undergone significant changes - the bell tower and crowning heads were destroyed. In modern times, it is being restored by villagers and volunteers (for example, a report)
July 2018. Month in the North.Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

Museum of the Zonezha wedding in an old house
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

The building of a psycho-neurological boarding school with a turret also attracts attention.
Well, I took the backpack and started my hiking circle in the villages.
The first on the way - the village Kondoberezhskaya (Konda, Kondoberega, Konda Berezhskaya, Berezhsky - all call it their own way). Go quite close, about 1.5 kilometers. Until recently, the village was designated as a former settlement. Seven old dilapidated houses, five new, one guest house and a chapel. The locals registered in the village are eight people, five of them children.
From the Internet and posters in the Velikaya Guba, I knew that in the house of the Polish writer Mariusz Vilka,and now the ethnocultural center of Zaonezhskaya hut, today will be a holiday "Not red at the corner of corners ..." He repeatedly describes in his books (in particular, "Onego's House is necessary", it is dedicated to just living in Zaonezhie). Despite the slightly chernushnuyu manner of description, I like his books, read, it seems, everything except Volok.
Therefore, as soon as I reached the house (and he was recognized immediately), I turned into the courtyard. In the courtyard, preparations for the holiday were already in full swing: a lot of cars, work is in full swing, people in suits are preparing for the performance
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

I found Natalia, Mariusz’s wife, told him that I was traveling across the North, and asked for permission to inspect the hut. Natalya immediately invited me to stay for the holiday, but asked in return for some help with preparing for the holiday - to help shabby things. I also offered to spend the night in a hut for free, to melt a bath, but, unfortunately, today I planned to go much more. But if I walked the other way, I would happily spend the night. But on holiday, of course, stayed.First of all, he ran around the house with a camera, taking advantage of a small number of people, swam from the pier, and then set about volunteer work.
The Kiryanov House is one of the few surviving monuments of the early 20th century in Zaonezhie. It was built in 1911 by a family of residents of the village of Kondoberezhskaya. The construction money was earned by one of the sons of the head of the family, who had a trading shop in St. Petersburg. After the revolution, it became the center of a collective farm, during the war years a Finnish timber merchant lived in the house, after the war during the restoration of the national economy, there were courses for tractor drivers, then a school was organized. This is a typical house in Zaonezhye, in which one family usually three generations of households. There is an attic in it, and the house itself consists of four large huts or a Vater-i-Vater, but only its residential part with three Russian stoves has been preserved.
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

July 2018. Month in the North.Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

Office Mariusz. And Nikolay Klyuev thoughtfully looks from the stove
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

At 14 o'clock the holiday began, the fun started.
The first thing is to feed the guest. Pies and other pastries, according to traditional Zaonezhie recipes, oatmeal kissel, pea porridge from the oven.Everyone is poured tea from a huge samovar, which is heated here
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

The audience gathered
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

And for good reason, there is something to look at. Square dance, round dances and other dances performed by folk groups and all interested guests
July 2018. Month in the North.Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

Female choir to the accompaniment of the accordion
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

In Kondoberezhskoy, the legend of the peasant Rye's belly, who loved the Velikogubskie rolls so much that he managed to eat three rolls on his way home, was preserved. The local guy, on the contrary, treats lovers to everyone
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

The girls gathered on the quay
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

The house, too, is something to see. Zaonezhskaya spinning rides - spinning together with songs and conversations
Natalia gives a master class on cooking in the Russian stove
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

Children willingly take part in house excursions.
July 2018. Month in the North.Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

Folklore collective from the village of Velikaya Guba.
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

Photo exhibition "Household and field occupations Zaonezhan"
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

I went to the chapel of Samson the Freak (19th century). According to legends, Samson was a noble Roman, a healer, and later his house was a haven for beggars and travelers.
For some reason, in some sources, the chapel is called Nikolskaya. This is a cage structure with a small porch-porch and a large prayer room under a single gable roof. Above the porch is a bell tower on a log octagon.
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

Chapel is not locked. The interior is very austere, the door is twisted and hanging on one loop. In the middle of the cross, apparently, the one that Mariusz brought from the neighboring village (this story is also described in the House above Onego)
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

Here is another valid journalistic article about the holiday, from which I drew some details, and a group of the VC ethnocultural center, frequently updated, and with a lot of interesting content.
The holiday was very interesting, with a homely atmosphere and, despite the large number of folklore groups, it was completely natural and non-staging, like a real village holiday. The guys really did everything very well, and many local residents actively participated. Actions went in parallel on many sites, and the way I wanted to see everything, I constantly had to actively move. It was not possible to communicate with Mariusz. According to the guide, Tatiana, he now lives in Italy. I did not go into details, I am not interested in the details of someone else’s personal life. As for Natalia, she is a real Zonezhanka - beautiful, confident, hospitable. I do not know why some people like to push out one negative, instead of enjoying what is. My impression is extremely positive.Many places described in the books are recognizable: the cross, the furnace, a folk group from local grandmothers
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

Moved on to Sibovo. The road here, of course, is worse, the forest, so there are already few who ride there. Most drivers get scared after Konda, although, in my amateurish opinion, a skilled driver who does not blow dust particles off the precious suspension will pass here in dry weather.
Sibovo looks deaf, but a residential village, almost all houses are in good condition.
Earlier in the village there was a church of the Presentation of the Virgin in the temple, this is how it looked in 1970.
July 2018. Month in the North.Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

But it burned down in 1977, and now, in memory of her, a cross and a memorial shield are set up at this place.
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

I don’t linger in the village for a long time, walk through and go to Ust-Yandom, where I am going to spend the night. Reaching the village, turned a little earlier, and went to the lake. Large, northern houses were lined up along the yuoregovoi line, there is some sort of plague or Kuvax, there are people.
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

And passing at home, such a good road suddenly buried in a solid field of grass in my height in height. At the same time on Maps.Me was marked trail. I knocked to the nearest house and asked the boy who looked out how to get to the church, to which he pointed to the center of the field, and said: "Yes, there’s a path."In general, I went straight across the field, to the church that was visible in the distance, and these last 15 minutes exhausted me more than the entire day's journey along the road.
The shown chapel just fits perfectly into the surrounding landscape. Standing on the shore of the lake, in a wild field of high grass, she fascinated me at first sight. I lived a couple of days around her, hid in the heat on the porch, met the sunset on the bell tower, and the connection only strengthened, I still think that it is beautiful in Zaonezhie. Once again, I am amazed at the talent of the ancient architects, who so finely inscribed the church into the environment.
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

But all this later, but now I began to look for where I would put up a tent. The problem is that everywhere there was untouched tall grass, with the exception of mowed summer cottages. I wanted to get closer to the water, but there were no beaches, and the banks were overgrown with reeds.
He entered the affable wide-open church gate with a gable roof and a beautiful solar ridge, and left a rucksack on the porch
July 2018. Month in the North.Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

The chapel of St. George or in the old style of George the Zmeeborets was built at the end of the XVIII century. The cemetery chapel, around it is a small churchyard, the fence of which, the roving, is lined with boulders.In general, the village that is now called Ust-Yandoma consisted of two parts: Ust-Yandoma itself (where I went first) and Pogost (the remote part with the cemetery). Well, the very name of Ust-Yandom is very simple to decipher - the village stands at the mouth of the river Yandoma connecting Onego and Yandomozero. The high church is located in close proximity to the lake, and, for certain, served as a beacon earlier. Now the church is part of the Kizhi necklace - monuments located on the islands and skerries of Lake Onega, which are accessible for sightseeing from the water.
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

The interiors of the chapel. Inside there is a stunning smell of wood, dry grass, light and warm
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

Climbed to the bell tower, admire the views and look around in search of a parking space. The dome of the chapel is made of plowshares typical of Zaonezhye, as, for example, at the Church of the Transfiguration in Kizhi.
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

July 2018. Month in the North.Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

With a parking space, indeed, trouble, but the water showed a very convenient pier or fire bridge, which led trampled path. But for me it’s still a little unethical to get up in the immediate vicinity of the church and the cemetery. I noticed people near the house closest to the church, and went there to talk a bit with the locals.Before arranging parking it is important to make sure that the locals are adequate and that there will be no problems. Friendly enough talked with visiting summer residents. They care for the chapel. They did not object to parking on the shore, all the more, it was confirmed that there really was no better place. We talked about the bad tourists who were trying to make a fire in the church itself.
He set up a tent near the water and the pier, but outside the churchyard and at some distance from the church, having trampled down a plot in the grass. It can be seen that the tall grass almost hides my rather big double tent.
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

Dinner and swim from the pier, and until late evening, enjoying the surrounding silence and nature, in the rays of the setting sun. Mosquitoes pounded me all day in the forest, but now, before sunset, they swarm, you can stick your hand into this comforter, and they don’t pay any attention to the person. In general, almost everywhere and always, there is an evening break time, as if all of nature seemed to calm down, including insects. In my opinion, to see and feel it all, and you need to walk with your feet, and not drive past by car. Nothing compares to the feeling of pacification at sunset, after dinner and swimming, with a slight buzz in the legs and shoulders after the walk on foot.
July 2018. Month in the North. Petrozavodsk, Zaonezhie, part 1 now, church, very, after, church, which, just, near, holiday, village, village, village, Great, more, here, Onego, tent, today, around, lake

июль 2018. месяц на севере. петрозаводск, заонежье, часть 1 сейчас, церкви, очень, после, церковь, который, только, около, праздник, деревне, деревни, деревня, великой, больше, здесь, онего, палатку, сегодня, вокруг, озера

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